The River Test in Hampshire, England, holds a legendary place in the history of fly fishing, often regarded as the birthplace of modern dry-fly technique. This chalk stream, known for its crystal-clear waters and steady flow, has attracted anglers since the 19th century, when pioneers like Frederic Halford codified the art of upstream dry-fly fishing along its banks. Its unique ecosystem, fed by underground springs, supports abundant aquatic life and thriving wild brown trout populations, making it an enduring symbol of classic English fly fishing.

In the mid-1980s, I spent a summer as a Ghillie on the Test and the River Itchen, another outstanding chalk stream 30 minutes away near Winchester.  Guiding on these two historic trout streams was a truly wonderful and meaningful few months of my fishing career.  I credit that summer for the knowledge I learned about trout fishing, which stays with me today in terms of proper presentation, matching the hatch, and locking in on the rhythm of the rise.

We have sent clients to Hampshire for over four decades.  Our UK office has great access to private beats, and they look after our clients well.  I was overly excited to get back to the Test and Itchen — revisiting two of my favorite trout streams in the world, while also showing my wife this wonderful part of England.  We were also super excited to see Freelands, introduced to us by our UK team.  It’s an amazing estate on the River Test.  We went anticipating that it would be a wonderful fit for our clients!

Returning to the River Test after 35 years was more than just a nostalgic journey—it was a deeply emotional homecoming to the spiritual heart of fly fishing.  For many anglers, the Test represents where it all began: the rhythm of casting upstream, the hush of reeds brushing in the breeze, and the unmistakable silhouette of a rising trout in gin-clear water. To step back onto its hallowed banks after decades away, reconnected me with my personal history on a fishery that has shaped generations.

A 90-minute drive from London, Freelands is a remarkable experience on the banks of the Test.  Built originally in 1878, this recently beautifully restored and massively renovated riverside estate is set on 28 acres.  It boasts eight suites that are designed to provide a luxurious and private stay. Complementing the bedrooms, guests will enjoy a fully stocked bar, drawing room, TV room, an incredible terrace, and outdoor dining areas. There’s a timeless charm in blending Victorian-era architecture with modern luxury — where period details like oak staircases and high ceilings meet indulgent comforts such as spa facilities, sleek bathrooms, and seamless service and cuisine by their exceptional hospitality team. This thoughtful fusion creates an atmosphere that’s both elegant and deeply relaxing, offering the romance of history without sacrificing contemporary ease and comfort.

The Retreat, a relatively new addition to the property, offers curated wellness and rejuvenation with a full gym, hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room, yoga studio, and treatment rooms.

The Fishing

Freelands has three private beats on the River Test: Freelands Home Beat, the Upper Chilbolton, and Chilbolton Lower Beat.  These provide well over a mile of exceptional trout fishing.  The estate also has a three-acre stocked lake with browns, rainbows, and even pike.  The lake is also a great place to practice your casting and receive some pointers from the Freelands ghillie team.  If clients want to experience other water, Freelands can reserve additional private beats on the Test and the Itchen.  For those who do not want to lug their gear across the Atlantic, fishing equipment is provided for guests, including rods, reels, boots, sunglasses, hats, vests, and nets.

Kristene and I had an incredible morning on the Chilbolton Upper Beat.  After a tour and lunch at the estate with the delightful owners, we fished the Home Beat from the lower end up past the main home.  It was an exceptional afternoon.  Despite the unusually warm weather and abundant sunshine, we landed some great browns.

After a visit to Stonehenge and looking at some other hotels in the region, we came back to Freelands for dinner and overnight the following day.  We got to experience the hospitality team in high gear with canapes fireside followed by a delicious dinner streamside in anticipation of the evening hatch.

As the sun started to set behind the trees, the river lit up and we had almost two hours of many browns sipping constantly.  It was an epic evening with lots of takes, many misses, and some nice trout to the net.  Unfortunately, when darkness came, we could no longer see the tiny dries, and it was bedtime after a very memorable evening.  Being able to fish the evening rise after dinner is another highlight of this unique property!

Freelands is perfect for larger intact parties… a group of couples, a corporate retreat, and/or a luxury family getaway.  It can be 100% fishing focused, or much more bespoke custom travel designed.  It’s perfect for serious fly fishers who want to travel with their non-fishing companions.  We can also arrange bird shooting.

For those who are not traveling with a large group, we work with other nice hotels close-by the chalk streams in quaint towns that we can match based on your interests and budget objectives.

Today, the River Test remains a revered destination for anglers worldwide, steeped in tradition and natural beauty.  Every serious trout fisherman should put the English chalk streams on their list of great rivers to experience.

Contact Kristene Fitzgerald for additional details.

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