If you’re looking for an unbiased opinion on Christmas Island of the Republic of Kiribati, you’ve come to the wrong place. I might as well be upfront and honest from the beginning. I am an advocate, a raving fan, a zealot even. You see for me; this place has meaning and history far beyond just another flats destination… 

For me, Christmas Island (CXI) will forever hold a very special place in my heart, not only because this atoll is one of my father’s ALL-TIME favorite fly-fishing destinations, hearing many stories of the fishery and the extremely welcoming people over the years. But it is also the place where I truly honed my fly-fishing skills and realized my love for the sport. I have a deep-seated appreciation for this island.

Christmas Island Lodge, Christmas Island, Republic of Kiribati

As many anglers can relate, my first saltwater fly-fishing trip was extremely challenging. Taking turns casting 8 to 10 weight rods from the bow of a skiff for the first time with no real guidance, left me feeling incompetent and utterly discouraged. However, my first visit to CXI was only my second saltwater fly-fishing trip, AND that trip totally changed my attitude towards the sport! Due to the endless pancake flats to wade, vast variety of fish species to catch, seemingly constant opportunities, fly-fishing at CXI gave me confidence in my fly-fishing ability even when I doubted myself. Not only did I learn how to cast where I am aiming, but I even discovered how to double haul on these pristine hard sand and coral flats, which for me was a huge accomplishment… I came to CXI a novice angler and I left with an intermediate skillset.

February 2020 – Let’s rewind the clocks back four years to February 16, 2020. My fellow host and I arrived in Honolulu with several clients in tow. We were scheduled to fly to CXI on that upcoming Tuesday, to host what would have been my 3rd hosted group on the Island. Unfortunately, upon our arrival in Honolulu, we were informed by the Lodge Owner and the then US Ambassador of Kiribati that for the foreseeable future, The Republic of Kiribati would not allow any international visitors to fly to the island. Unbeknownst to us, the pandemic would postpone our fishing adventure back to CXI for more than 3 years. Frontiers has a longstanding relationship with “Christmas Island Lodge”, the former “Captain Cook Hotel”, and lucky for me, a few of our staff were invited to experience the new and improved lodge. Let the fly-fishing adventure planning and tying BEGIN!

May 2023 – After 3 long years, flights from the USA resume to CXI. Like every other country did at the start of the pandemic, Kiribati shut down its borders to international travel and refused to reopen even after the rest of the world deemed it safe to travel. The longer the island remained closed to the world, the more desirable these iconic flats became to myself and my fellow enthusiasts, as we could only imagine how amazing the fishing would be after all these years!

August 2023 – After much anticipation and excitement, the day finally arrived for our group to head back to CXI. Regarding the travel and our previous experiences, not much has changed in getting to and from the island. There is still only one flight in and out a week, which departs from Honolulu at noon on Tuesdays, arriving at CXI on Wednesday at 3pm (you cross the international dateline).

In my past trips to CXI, I stayed at Ikari House, which has in recent years been one of the more modern lodges on the island. So, for us, this trip was extra special as we were able to experience Christmas Island Lodge, once well known as the iconic Captain Cook Hotel, now restored and under new management. With all the modern creature comforts you may desire, a team of experienced guides, and easy access to the inner lagoon, Backcountry & Korean Wreck, Christmas Island Lodge is quickly becoming another top tier fishing lodge on the island.

Upon arrival at the CXI Airport, we quickly collected our luggage then went through customs and immigration. Stepping out of the terminal into the sunlight, the feeling of Déjà vu and pure joy washed over me as I thought to myself, “I made it, I am finally back!”. My thoughts were disrupted by a friendly “Mauri!”, which means “Hello” in the native Gilbertese language. Spoken by the waiting Christmas Island Lodge staff. Our luggage was swiftly loaded, and we were taken on a 15-minute drive to the lodge.

The lodge manager, José, joined us for dinner, which was a nice bonus, as we were eager to get a plan together for the next six days of fishing. After filling our bellies, we all made our way back to our bungalows to mentally prepare for what was sure to be an epic week of fishing!

Each morning our group was greeted with a hearty breakfast, meant to sustain an angler for the long day ahead. Eager to get out on the water, breakfasts were quickly consumed, almost mechanically. Evenings were spent laughing and swapping the successes and failures of our days. Gorging ourselves on homemade ceviche made each day by José, with the fresh caught Ahi Tuna. All the while planning how to tackle the next fishing day.

Once our saltwater boots were on the ground in CXI, we hit the flats running. Never missing a beat or the opportunity to chase the fish we have been dreaming of for the past several years. For me, my main objective was to land another triggerfish, specifically a picasso triggerfish since I have not caught one yet. I spent my days scanning the flats for any signs of a feeding triggerfish. Unfortunately, I threw my line out to many tailing triggerfish, with no success. On the upside, I did learn to spot the picasso triggerfish “homes”. I’ll keep this knowledge in my back pocket for my next adventure to CXI!

Even though I did not catch the triggerfish I had wished for, I did land MANY other species of fish which truly made up for my inability to achieve my goal. There were several bluefin trevally landed that I will never forget! Imagine a bright blue flash as a pack of these gangsters swam across the reef at lightning speed… There were numerous small schools of spotted trevally, which looked like a pompano. At one point, my husband and I even doubled up on giant trevally, which was a rush to say the least!

Although Christmas Island is revered as a challenging fishery, this destination is more productive than you could ever imagine. It is one destination that you must personally visit, to truly wrap your head around. From stalking big bonefish in the Inner Lagoon to hunting giant trevally in the backcountry, there was never a dull moment in our week on the island. Despite the long hours wading the flats fly rod in hand, were well rewarded with a vast array of quality fish landed. Visiting this fishery is truly a special experience that all anglers, regardless of skill level, need to have.

If you are interested in experiencing Christmas Island yourself, please contact me, Lisa Kiley. 

~ Lisa Kiley, Program Manager